Pack of Wild Dogs

I have been in Istanbul for about a week, slowly taking bites out of the enormity of a city that is home to roughly 18 million inhabitants! WHOA! I have been having an absolutely swell time staying with my friend Ian, he continues to be a fabulous tour guide and host.  We have imbibed much of the whiskey I bought from the duty free store at the airport, gone on long, meandering walks to drink fresh carrot juice, look at music shops, bookstores, and sit by the inky black Bosphorous to watch the ships at night.  We have also spent a couple evenings watching youtube videos of the muppets singing "Oh Danny Boy," and the Dutch National Ballet performing a piece called "groosland" in fat suits. Amazing.  I have frequented his favorite neighborhood sanwich shops and watering hole, where the beer is relatively cheap and nuts are salty.

Some of the best things I have eaten: a soupy egg dish with tomatoes and cheese, hot peppers and a shitload of bread; platefuls of green olives, cucumber, honey and butter cream (also with loads of bread); deep fried fresh sardines with salad; and turkish flat bread with spices, onion, and lemon as a garnish.

Things I have learned about turkish cuisine- Turks MUST eat bread with every meal, and are CONSTANTLY drinking tea.

My favorite day involved Ian and I taking a ferry to a nearby island about an hour away, and during the ride we drank our requisite tea and listened to the song-like sounds of tiny spoons touching the sides of small glass cups.  This island was amazing, steep cliffs that rose out of the water, quiet seafront cafes and shuttered houses on wind blown streets.  We grabbed a pack of cookies and a few beers at one of the little stores, and made our way to the top of the island, followed by two semi-wild dogs who were just thrilled that we were going for a walk.  At the top we found an open meadow with horses, and a stunning view of the ocean, as well as the faraway shapes of Istanbul.  Not being ready to leave, we traversed to the other side of the island, picking up two more dogs along the way.  It is not often that a  lady can say she hung out on a Turkish island with a pack of wild dogs, eating cookies and drinking beer on sea swept cliffs.  We finished our day with a delicious fish dinner, and both promptly fell asleep on the ferry ride back to the city.

My other favorite night was when we went in search of a local rembetica band that was playing in the neighborhood, and upon finding the venue, were rewarded with some of the most beautiful, soul lifting music I have heard in ages. Rembetica is traditionally greek style music, with folk songs (a lot of times about drugs), accordion, violin, bouzouki, guitar, and clarinet.  Everybody in this packed bar was throwing back glasses of Raki, favored liquor of choice in Turkey, like it was water, and before long the floor was filled with people dancing and singing along.  It was gorgeous. 

In between my sight seeing excursions I had the pleasure of meeting my new friend Melanie, another Seattle transplant, and we had a grand old time drinking tea, watching the old men fish by pier, and eating a fabulous dinner with her very sweet husband. 

When the city starts to press in on me a little too much, or too many men give me wolf eyes, I retreat to a cup of turkish coffee and a book, and remind myself this is EXACTLY why I quit my job: so I could drink coffee and read in a foreign city, listening to the call to prayer and ruminating on the nature of life and whatnot.

Tomorrow I head to Ankara (apparently a shithole, but I am determined to have a fabulous time there) to stay with my friend Ryan and celebrate Thanksgiving.  I have about 3 more weeks here, and I am lookin to take some long distance buses to some coastal beaches, and trade in my tea glass for a wine glass, and perhaps work on another farm.

This ginger is lovin Istanbul, chaos and all, and she wishes you a very happy and healthy thanksgiving, wherever you may be.  Gobble Gobble from Turkey!