I just touched an Udder

So folks, welcome to my new life. Ever wanted to spend your days on a gorgeous farm on a one lane country road, getting ankle deep in cow shit, going to choir practice, eating fresh cheese and butter and homemade bread for breakfast, all while learning Polish? Now is your chance! Buy a ticket to Warsaw, and I'll see you soon!

After two days in Krakow, I said goodbye to my dear childhood friend Ryan Shupe, and set off for the next phase of my journey. (A quick note on Ryan- one of the best travel partners a lass could ask for.  How many cappuccinos, kebabs, crazy train rides, and bike adventures can two people share together?! He will be sorely missed.) Krakow was interesting and beautiful, though I did not get to see all of the sights, such as the old Jewish Quarter or the crazy salt mines, but I hope I will be back! Actually, some of the highligts of Krakow were as follows, and then I will get back to farm girls stories.

- going into a bar, a Polish man asked me where I was from, I said "Seattle," he slapped me on the back and yelled, "fuck you! I live in Burien 16 years! I love Seattle!" That was the night Ryan and I briefly danced on the bar. Enough said.

-A long, very interesting/moving conversation with a Chicago native named Mike, whose grandparents, also Polish Jews, survived the war. He is the second American my age who I have met in Poland, with a similar story. It felt good to connect with him.

-Last but not least, a hip hop street performance set to the final song from Dirty Dancing. I have no words. It was brilliant.

So, to get back to my story- after saying goodbye to Ryan I climbed back into the jaws of Poland's sketchy and poorly marked transportation system, but managed to make it to the small village of Sanniki, about an hour and a half outside of Warsaw.  I was greeted by Ewa (Eva) the generous, grounded, amazing woman who runs a farm and learning center near the village with her husband Peter.  Peter is an organic farmer from Switzerland who moved here 20 years ago after a friend invited him. He bought the farm, house included, for $2,000. 

They have 5 daughters, a herd of goats, two horses, a barn full of cows, a handful of cats, and small gang of dogs.  Grandma Victoria lives here, who only speaks Polish, but we make coffee together and sometimes go outside to check on the cats or the apples.

My first evening here, I was told that a group of volunteers were staying in the guest house with me, which is like a large old dorm style house with a kitchen, den, and lots of bunkbeds. I came downstairs to find a group of 5 men from Warsaw who greeted me warmly, offered me beer, and proceeded to ask me my life story.  They could not believe they were meeting an American girl in a small village, and thought I was both brave and crazy.  Turns out they were a group of accountants from Citi bank. Now THAT surprised me! They were there to help re-paint a school locker room that had been badly damaged in a flood several months ago. Many nearby villages were damaged, and are still recovering. The next day I was able to go with them and help them paint, and in the process I ate a lot of sausage, drank some beer, and made my first Polish friends. I am hoping to see them in Warsaw, where we may visit the old town and go to a soccer match.

That night, after they had gone, I met Derick, who works as the farm manager, and Kathe, his good friend who lives in Torun. We hit it off instantly and had a great time "making photos" and feeding the animals.

Today began around 8 o'clock, we had a long breakfast including tea, fresh cheese, tomato honey, bread, and coffee. I helped with cheese making, learned how to milk the cows and the goats, brought in some straw, drank more coffee, helped scout out a new stable, dropped Kathe off at the bus station, and then sang with their small local choir for about an hour.

The stars are very bright here. The air is cold. The leaves are still turning, and the ground is covered in their yellow dresses. The house is painted blue; there is wagon full of pumpkins in the front yard.  Things are old, and things are just beginning. I wish I could speak more Polish. I wish I could bring my friends here. I smell like goat.

Much love, and more later.